Frequently Asked Questions III

By: Coral Plantations Pty Ltd

What supplements should I dose my tank with & how often

 

Normally we dose with four mineral additives only; namely calcium, strontium, iodine and carbonate hardness.

 

Calcium

Calcium is the major building block of corals, shells and other invertebrates such as shrimps, sea urchins and crabs.

 

The levels of calcium in seawater ranges from about 350 ppm upwards to 500 ppm or more depending on location. The ideal level is at least 400 ppm and not more than 500 ppm

 

Natural calcium levels are higher in a coral/lime/shell-based environment such as in a coral reef situation or with correct tank substrate. Salt water collected on the Gold Coast and many synthetic salt mixes tend to be low in calcium so it has to be added.

 

Only calcium-based substrates are recommended in marine reef aquariums; such as coral, shell and limestone/marble/calcium carbonate. (Silicate sand is NOT)

 

Calcium levels can be increased by several means such as adding calcium hydroxide, calcium oxide, calcium chloride and some commercial calcium additives.

 

Using calcium chloride is a fast way of increasing calcium BUT it can acidify the water and reduces alkalinity (pH buffering). If it is used it should be used in conjunction with correct amounts of sodium bicarbonate with the occasional addition of magnesium sulphate... Enthusiast reefers use the three part dosing regime using Randy’s #2 recipes. (a separate brochure is available on this).

 

A very good method is the use of calcium oxide or hydroxide as it increases both the calcium and the alkalinity; slow & steady. The available forms of these chemicals are hydrated (garden) lime and lime oxide. When mixed with water they both produce limewater, better known as KALKWASSER.

 

Kalkwasser has the added advantage of precipitating unwanted phosphates out of the water BUT this is less effective if the” white vinegar PLUS kalkwasser method is followed. Therefore if you are mainly interested in calcium then use the white vinegar method whereas if you are interested in both calcium and phosphate reduction DO NOT use vinegar (a separate brochure is available on this)

 

Note. Kalkwasser also adds some carbonate hardness BUT NOT when used with vinegar

 

The easiest method is generally using commercial calcium supplement as we do; at the rate of 5ml per 20 litres of water. This can be dosed regularly (say weekly) or after each water change BUT regular testing of the calcium levels is essential to ensure the levels Do not exceed 500 ppm.

 

 

Strontium

Strontium is a significant minor element in seawater, usually found at about 8 – 10 ppm. Chemically it’s like calcium, and many organisms, especially invertebrates, use it in their skeletons, along with calcium and sometimes magnesium. Strontium can be used in place of calcium by corals for their skeletons, and may even produce faster growth.

 

It has also been shown that regular and double normal dosing of strontium greatly improves the growth of coralline algae. This appears to be even more effective when good blue/actinic lighting is used to supplement the normal white light.

 

Some corals, especially some hard types are very dependent on adequate supplies of strontium

 

Overseas reports show that increasing the amount of strontium in the water 2-10 times above natural levels greatly increases the growths of some coral, especially the hard types

 

Because it is used in large quantities in a reef tank it could be dosed heavier than many recommendations of 2ml per 100 litres. In our tanks we dose weekly at about double that; i.e. 4-5 ml per 100 L weekly.

 

 

Iodine

Iodine is a trace or minor element found in seawater as about 60 parts per billion (< 1ppm)

 

Overseas workers found that iodine stimulates the growth of some soft coral species (e.g. Zenia) and helps prevent soft corals from crashing (losses). It also appears to be essential for a range of other soft corals such as Anthelia and Clavularia; and appears to be critical for the long term success of stony/hard corals

 

Other research has shown its importance in the

• development of pigments, e.g. greens, reds and golden in corals, especially in Corallimorphs and anemones
• expansion of Corallimorphs (disc anemones)
• helping corals adapt easily to change in light
• helping reduce “bleaching” effects caused by high water temperatures
• proper moulting process of crustaceans

 

Iodine can be poisonous and must not be overdosed.

 

The normal dosage recommended is 2ml per 100 L weekly

Carbonate hardness (KH)

Low carbonate hardness can stop coral & invert growth

 

Carbonate Hardness (KH) measures just the carbonates/bicarbonates whist alkalinity measures those elements and a few others. However we generally use these terms as one, for convenience.

 

Whatever, calcium plus carbonate is combined in nature by marine inverts such as corals both hard and soft, shells and clams, crustaceans and the like, and calcareous algae/plants (such as Halimeda and coralline algae). The chemical formed is relatively insoluble calcium carbonate.

 

For animals/plants that lay down a calcium carbonate type of skeleton they must have access to both calcium and carbonate. However because strontium and magnesium can be used in calcium’s place to combine with carbonate, it is the carbonate component that is vital

 

So, carbonate is extremely important and is needed in relatively large quantities where fast growing calcium-demanding animals/ plants are growing. If not enough is available, then reduced growth and eventual death WILL occur, especially in hard corals and coralline algae.

 

Please, do not under estimate the need of and the importance of carbonate hardness.

 

How to get that much needed alkalinity/carbonate hardness (KH)

1. Carbonate hardness generator - contains a spectrum of hardness compounds including sodium bi-carbonate, soda ash and borates. In salt water it is much more effective than sodium bicarbonate/baking soda. Both cheap and effective and keeps the pH up.
2. Kalkwasser - Made by dissolving Ca (OH) AKA hydrated lime, or calcium oxide in water. The good thing about kalkwasser is that it will supply calcium and help keep the alkalinity level – for pH stability. (see the calcium section earlier).
3. Sodium bi-carbonate - Not as effective as the KH generator but works well if used in the 2 or 3 part dosing system with sodium chloride. (see the calcium section earlier).

 

 

-The easiest method for most people is to use the KH generator powder. It is cheap, effective and also raises (and buffers) the pH at the same time. We use about 1 level teaspoon pr 100L of water 2-3 times per week BUT if you do this enure the levels DO NOT exceed 200ppm KH or pH 8.5

 

How do I re-locate my marine aquarium; what is needed to be done?

Re-locating a marine aquarium can be a stressful event for both the owners and the inhabitants BUT if done logically it can be relatively low –stress.

 

 

There are not too many professionals who can do it properly so if you know the whys and wherefores yourself you can be forewarned and fore-armed when organising the event. You may even choose to do it yourself if the tank is not too large or you have the energy and confidence.

 

Up to a 4ft or 5ft tank can generally be managed by yourself (with a big help from your friends and neighbours) If you can get someone to actually move the tank and stand for you then it’s much easier as all you have to do is worry about moving the occupants.

 

It is a good idea to have your tank in as good a condition (health wise) before the move as is possible.

 

Here is a guide to how we do it.

• There is normally no problem to hold the rock, substrate and livestock in open boxes for at least several hours.
• The rock and substrate needs to be kept cool and damp (covered with wet newspaper using salt water) whilst livestock such as fish, starfish, shrimps crabs etc need to be in well aerated / well circulated salt shallow water. (or in oxygen-filled fish bags)
• Corals can he held in either very shallow salt water (removed earlier) or wrap gently in well moistened (saltwater) newspaper and store cool & moist (not saturated)
• I'd keep at least 30-40 % of the original water for re-use.